Karen Berger

Ski the East's Best


Originally published in AMC Outdoors; reprinted by GORP.com.

Contents

* Bigelow Mountains, Maine
* Pemigewasett Wilderness, New Hampshire
* Mt Toby Reservation, Massachusetts
* McLean Game Refuge, Connecticut
* Mohonk Preserve, New York
* Promised Land State Park, Pennsylvania
* Anyplace White (!), Washington D.C.

by Karen Berger

Three days into a seven-day backcountry ski trip and time has frozen to a crawl. The only sounds are the squeaking of snow underfoot, the crackling moan of a lake eternally changing its mind about whether to freeze or thaw, and the ragged sounds as I draw breaths of cold air.

The Northville-Lake Placid Trail in New York's Adirondack Mountains is a lowland trail, eschewing the exposed peaks for sheltered valley forests interspersed with frozen lakes. In the middle of summer, it's blackfly country, but now, in the dead of winter, the earth lies suspended in silence under a blanket of snow. The trail is flat, easy to ski except when the snow cover is light and the obstacles dense. Then, you might find that the under-snow obstacle course of boulders and deadwood makes it easier to walk than to ski. Camping is easy: The trail sports a series of lean-tos, deserted this time of year except for a handful of mice optimistically waiting for a few crackers and crumbs to dribble out from a hiker's food sack. The days are short; the sun, glaring and stingy, sneaks away early in the evening after slouching all day in the southern sky, shirking its job of warming the world. The temperatures are cold: 10 degrees, 0 degrees, even colder at night. It feels as if I have been gone a month.

If you live in the Northeast, you're no stranger to winter. For some of us, winter means coming face-to-face with the mercurial gods of December mountain summits. For others, it's the season of dead car batteries and snow-choked roads. But there is a kinder, gentler side to winter — the winter of protected valleys and gentle forests, where you can glide away from the frenetic hype of the holidays.

Backcountry skiing, touring, racing, bushwhacking, ski-packing, and telemarking: In the last few years, cross-country skiing (loosely defined as the kind of skiing where what glides down must climb up) has burgeoned.

Just look at how the ski section has grown in your local outfitting store. When I bought my first pair of cross-country skis some twenty years ago, my choice of "skinnies" was limited to waxable or waxless. For mountaineering skis, I had to go to a specialty shop.

Today, you can take your pick of skis designed for touring, floating, turning, and packing — and almost any combination thereof. The reason? It's healthy, fun, inexpensive. It's also as close as your nearest golf course, hiking path, rail trail, or state park.To find the best places for a quick winter getaway, I went to the experts: ski-trip leaders of the venerable Appalachian Mountain Club. Whether your winter schedule gives you a few free hours or a few free days, you can take advantage of their favorite places and make the most of winter.

But before you head out, a warning: Winter trips, even in the sheltered valleys of the so-called temperate zone, require winter gear. Always be prepared to encounter Mother Nature in one of her fouler moods. A cross-country ski outing requires a daypack stuffed with the 10 essentials, including extra layers of insulating clothing (hoods, hats, gaiters, and mittens). You might also want to throw in a couple of chemical-powered warming packets (available at your local outfitter) as spot treatment for cold fingers and toes.

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Bigelow Mountains, Maine

When Greg Drummond opened his Claybrook Mountain Lodge in Highland Plantation, Maine, he thought that his winter business would depend on snowmobilers. For a while, it did. Then the backcountry skiers discovered the Bigelow Mountains and the snowmobile trails that let them glide through miles of backcountry without the hard work of breaking trail. Today, he says, it's cross-country skiers who make up the bulk of his wintertime clientele. Drummond has skied all over the area as a local trip leader. He's also created miles of ski trails on his property, which adjoins Bigelow State Preserve.

The Bigelow Mountains offer a wide range of skiing experiences, from flat snowmobile trails in the lowlands to extremely difficult backcountry routes, including the steep descent down the south face of Poplar Mountain, which Drummond characterizes as "for experts only."

For non-experts, one of Drummond's favorite routes is a five-mile ski from Long Falls Dam Road to Bigelow Lodge. Outbound, the trail offers a gentle glide through northern forests; it's the return that can get interesting, if the wind is blowing just right.

What does the wind have to do with skiing in a sheltered forest? "If the prevailing wind is northwest, we come back across the lake, skiing with the wind at our backs," says Drummond. "Sometimes there's a thin crust on the top of the snow that accumulates on the lake, and the lighter-weight members of our party don't break through it; they just stay on the crust and put their arms out and the wind takes them. Those of us who aren't so lightweight sink in and have to ski, and we end up two miles behind."

It may be the invention of a new sport: Ski-sailing, anyone?

* Location: Highland Plantation, Maine.
* Contact: Greg Drummond, Claybrook Mountain Lodge, (207) 628-4681.
* Guidebook: David Goodman's Backcountry Skiing Adventures

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Pemigewasset Wilderness, New Hampshire

The Whites in winter. Even on a calm, blue-sky day, you can see that plume of snow at the top of Mount Washington. You've probably heard the tales, maybe collected a few yourself: the buffeting winds and plummeting temperatures; the worst recorded weather in the world. Just about every year, people die up there. It's something to think about before heading uphill.
Then again, no one says you have to go uphill.

"The Wilderness Trail in the Pemigewasset Wilderness," AMC ski leader D. Kurt Piper says immediately, when I ask him about a cross-country ski trail that doesn't require winter mountaineering skills.

If your only experience in the Whites has been summertime hiking (say, for instance, the belly-on-rock route along Garfield Ridge), you might be surprised to learn that this White Mountain trail is downright easy. "It follows an old railroad grade," explains Piper, "and that makes it ideal for beginners. You don't need telemarking equipment or technical skills. But you should be competent with a map and compass, because you'll want to make sure you don't accidentally stray onto one of the side trails."
Pemigewasset means "swift current" in the Abenaki language, and the trail follows the river course — not so swift in the winter chill — along the east branch of the Pemigewasset River for nine miles, through a variety of forest types including birch, aspen, maple, ash, and beech. But although the forests break the winds, Piper cautions that this is still New Hampshire, and the weather can be unpredictable and severe. The 10 essentials are, let's just say, essential.

* Location: Trailhead is located just off the Kancamagus Highway, about five miles from Lincoln.
* Contact: USDA White Mountain National Forest,
(603) 744-9165.
* Guidebook: The Wilderness Trail and the Pemigewasset Wilderness are described in the AMC White Mountain Guide, which also recommends other White Mountain cross-country ski routes. (Out of print, but available used from Amazon.com).

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Mount Toby, Massachusetts

Down in Massachusetts the mountains are lower, rounder, softer. There are no wind-driven plumes on the summit of modest Mount Toby, located near Sunderland, in central Massachusetts. But in an area of gentle, wooded summits, where panoramic vistas are few and far between, Mount Toby offers a reward to those who climb to the top: a fire tower and a view.

"On a good day, you can see all the way to Mount Monadnock in New Hampshire," says Miriam Gorham, who leads trips in the area. She recommends the Mount Toby Reservation, owned by the University of Massachusetts, for skiers who have mastered the basics of stopping and turning. "The view is best in winter, because the foliage is down."

According to Gorham, the trails offer a variety of terrain for intermediate skiers, including old logging roads that time has shrunk into the kind of trail that makes for great skiing: They're wider than hiking trails, with fewer obstacles and more even grades. Nonetheless, there are plenty of uphill workouts and downhill thrills. "It's not difficult terrain, but it's not for rank beginners," says Gorham. "You're probably better off with steel-edged backcountry skis over lighter-weight touring skis — although if you've got skinnies and know how to use them, you'll be okay."

Snow cover in north-central Massachusetts isn't reliable all winter long, so when Gorham puts together a trip, the announcement will often say "We'll go where the snow is." Her other nearby choices include Pisgah State Forest in nearby southern New Hampshire, Holyoke Range State Park, and Wendell State Forest.

* Location: Plowed parking for the area is located on Reservation Road, 1/2 mile east of Massachusetts Highway 47, five miles north of Sunderland.
* Contact: Matt Kelty, UMass Dept. of Forestry and * Wildlife, (413) 545-1799.
* Guidebook: Check out Skiing the Pioneer Valley by Chris Ryan, available from New England Cartographics, PO Box 9369, North Amherst, MA 01059.

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McLean Game Refuge, Connecticut

Marty Griffin has a dilemma familiar to many winter lovers who live in the more urban, less mountainous areas of the Northeast. After having cross-country skied in the Canadian Rockies and the New England north country, it's hard to be satisfied with the more modest hills of home. But although you won't find multi-thousand-foot craggy peaks in Connecticut, you can find wintertime beauty. One of Griffin's favorite areas is the McLean Game Refuge just south of Granby, Connecticut.

"I like this area because you can ski here and feel that you're actually a lot farther north," she says. "It's the combination of forests and lakes and the fact that the area is untracked. It seems more remote. Of course, it's not real wilderness. But it lets me pretend."

Remote and trackless comes at a price: the laborious work of breaking trail. "It's nice to have a group of more than three people," says Griffin. "So you can take turns." She recommends backcountry skis and solid intermediate skills — stopping, turning, and side-stepping — especially if you climb East Barndoors Mountain, which boasts a view north to Mount Tom in Massachusetts, but a tricky, rocky descent if the snow cover is a little thin.

"You have to be flexible to ski around here," Griffin comments. "You've got to go where the snow is." Her other choices are Gay City State Park in Hebron and the West Hartford Reservoir System in West Hartford.

* Location: McLean Game Preserve, Simsbury, Connecticut. Route 10, South of Granby Center.
* Contact: (860) 653-7869.
* Maps: A map is posted at the trailhead.

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Mohonk Preserve and Minnewaska State Park Preserve, New York

Aside from two hotels — the famous Mohonk and the now defunct Minnewaska Hotel — the area has remained undeveloped, except for a few defunct carriage roads."Actually, those roads are ideal for skiing," says Wolff. "The roads were built for horses pulling wagons, so there aren't any cliffs to go up or down. And they've been de-rocked and recindered, so it doesn't take a lot of snow to have a good ski."

Wolff recommends several other good skis in the vicinity: Black Rock Forest near West Point, New York; Wawayanda State Forest in New Jersey; and High Point, New Jersey. "High Point doesn't have as many trails as the others," says Wolff. "But it is the highest place in New Jersey, and you'll often find snow there when the other areas are muddy and brown."

* Location: Minnewaska State Park Preserve (845-255-0752) is located off of New York Routes 44/55, about 11 miles west of New Paltz. The adjacent Mohonk Preserve (845-255-0919) has two offices: Trapps Entry, on New York 44/55; and the gatehouse, located on Mountain Rest Road.
* Maps: Check with the New York–New Jersey Trail Conference (212-685-9699). Minnewaska maps are available at the gatehouse or park office.
* Fees: A day-use permit, for a nominal fee, is required for Mohonk; seasonal passes are also available.

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Promised Land State Park, Pennsylvania

Farther south, planning ski trips gets a little trickier. Instead of tossing a few snowballs, the weather might throw a curve ball in the form of 55-degree temperatures.

"To find snow, go a little higher." That's the advice of Roger Homeyer, who leads trips in the Delaware Valley. "Here in the Poconos, it's usually a good 10 degrees colder than in neighboring Scranton and Wilkes-Barre. So we tend to have more reliable snow," says Homeyer. His favorite destination? Promised Land State Park, which offers a large network of well-marked trails on 3,000 acres of gentle terrain.

"It's a beginner-friendly area," says Homeyer. "There's nothing terribly steep, just a few short ups and downs to add some interest. Mostly, the trail weaves in and out of forests on old logging roads. It's a very beautiful park."

The park is mostly wooded with beech, birch, maple, and hemlock interspersed with a few shady pine groves and backcountry lakes. In summer, the lakes are favorites of fishermen. In winter, they're sheets of ice. "When it is cold enough you can even ski across the lakes," Homeyer says.

The only disadvantage is that on a crisp sunny weekend, it might seem that everybody is flocking to Promised Land. Homeyer recommends an early start, because by afternoon, the trails can be a little worn, especially if the snow cover is light. But popularity has its advantages — in this case, the recent opening and marking of new ski trails. A hint: If you want to avoid the crowds, stay away from popular Bruce Lake.

Or try nearby Brady's Lake State Game Lands near Blakesley, which features a trail system developed by local telemarkers.

* Location: The parking area is located on PA Route 390, about five miles south of I-84.
* Contact: Promised Land State Park, R.D. #1, Box 96, Greentown, PA 18426, (570) 676-3428.
* Maps: Available at the park office, open year-round.

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Anyplace White, Washington, D.C.

Washington, D.C. Appalachian Mountain Clubbers (AMC) may well consider themselves citizens of a tropical hardship post. Like citizens of other environmentally challenged outreaches — say Barrow, Alaska, or Tucson, Arizona — Washingtonians view their city's climatic extremes with a measure of pride: It's local legend that European diplomats were paid a hardship bonus to endure the heat and humidity. So it's not surprising that Ellen Kohn, a local resident and avid skier, has a different take on winter than her northern colleagues. "Let the snow find you," Kohn says. "It's a question of changing your mind set."

"We used to plan cross-country ski trips, but it got too frustrating," she says. "There were some seasons when we'd have to cancel every single trip because there wasn't any snow."

And then there are those winters when the capital does get snow and northerners watch in astonishment as an inch-deep dusting brings the city to a virtual standstill. Remember snow days from elementary school? In Washington, they're not just for kids: Workers go home, businesses close, and the government activates its liberal leave policy.

"Snow shuts us down," says Kohn. "But that makes for good skiing. Once the roads clear out, you can even ski down major avenues." Not to mention the running/biking paths, for which the capital and its surrounding communities are justly famous.

Potomac AMCers with a taste for adventure can glide over to Washington's Rock Creek Park (which extends into Maryland's Rock Creek Park, north of the capital); the 17-mile-long Mount Vernon Bicycle Path; the Washington and Old Dominion (W & OD) Bike Path (which goes 45 miles west, all the way to Purcellville in Loudon County, just nine miles east of the Blue Ridge Mountains); or the property of the Masonic Temple in Alexandria.

Or ski the Mall itself: It's a four-mile round trip from the Lincoln Memorial to the Capitol and back, and if that's not enough, you can add on a side jaunt around the Tidal Basin (that's where the cherry blossoms can be found in springtime) and the Jefferson Memorial.

As Kohn says, you can't actually plan for cross-country skiing in Washington. But when the snow starts to fall, the cars start to skid, and the government shuts down, pull those skis out of your attic and check out your favorite summertime jogging and biking paths.

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Article copyright © Karen Berger, 1999 - 2002. Photos copyright © Karen Berger and Daniel R. Smith, 1999 - 2002. No part of this article or any accompanying photos may be reproduced in any media without the express written permission of the author.